Detergent cosmetic compositions for hair-care application and use thereod

ABSTRACT

The invention relates to new detergent and conditioning hair-care compositions comprising (A) a washing base comprising an anionic surfactant and an amphoteric C 10 -C 14  alkylbetaine surfactant, (B) a conditioning system comprising at least one cationic guar gum and at least one insoluble silicone, the silicone being introduced into the composition in non-emulsified form, and (C) a cosmetically acceptable medium, as well as a process of cleansing and conditioning the hair by application of the composition.

[0001] The present invention relates to new cosmetic compositions havingimproved properties, intended simultaneously for cleansing andconditioning the hair, and comprising, in a cosmetically acceptablevehicle, a washing base consisting of particular surfactants havingdetergent power, in which base are also present, as conditioning agents,particular cationic polymers in combination with particular insolublesilicones. The invention also relates to the use of the saidcompositions in the abovementioned cosmetic application.

[0002] For cleansing and washing the hair, the use of detergenthair-care compositions (or shampoos) based essentially on traditionalsurfactants, in particular of the anionic, nonionic and/or amphoterictype, but more especially of the anionic type, is common. Thesecompositions are applied to wet hair, and the lather generated bymassage or friction with the hands makes it possible, after rinsing withwater, to remove the various kinds of soil initially present on thehair.

[0003] These base compositions admittedly possess good washing power,but the intrinsic cosmetic properties which are associated with themremain, however, rather poor, in particular on account of the fact thatthe relatively aggressive nature of such a cleansing treatment can leadeventually, on the hair fibre, to more or less pronounced damage, linedespecially to the progressive removal of the lipids or proteinscontained in or at the surface of the fibre.

[0004] Thus, in order to improve the cosmetic properties of the abovedetergent compositions, and more especially of those which are requiredfor application to sensitized hair (i.e. hair which is damaged orweakened, in particular through the chemical action of environmentalagents and/or of hair treatments such as permanent-waving, dyeing orbleaching), it is now usual to introduce into these compositionssupplementary cosmetic agents termed conditioning agents, intendedmainly to rectify or limit the harmful or undesirable effects induced bythe various treatments or types of attack to which the hair fibres aresubjected more or less repeatedly. These conditioning agents can, ofcourse, also improve the cosmetic behaviour of natural hair.

[0005] The conditioning agents most commonly used to date in shampoosare cationic polymers, silicones and/or silicone derivatives which, ineffect, impart to the washed, dry or wet hair an ease of disentangling,softness and a smoothness which are markedly enhanced in comparison towhat can be obtained with the corresponding cleansing compositions whichdo not contain them.

[0006] On sensitized hair, in order to obtain the cosmetic effects ofsilicones over the entire length of the hair fibre, it is preferable touse combinations of silicones and cationic polymers.

[0007] However, and in spite of the progress recently made in the fieldof shampoos based on cationic polymers and silicones, these latter donot really prove completely satisfactory, so that there is still at thepresent time a strong need to be able to have at one's disposal nowproducts displaying improved performance in respect of one or more ofthe cosmetic properties mentioned above.

[0008] The present invention is directed towards meeting this need.

[0009] Thus, following a considerable amount of research conducted onthis topic, it has now been found by the Applicant, completelyunexpectedly and surprisingly, that, by using a particular washing base,namely a washing base combining at least one anonic type surfactant andat least one amphoteric surfactant of the C₁₀-C₁₄ alkylbetaine type,simultaneously comprising, in addition, particular, appropriatelyselected silicones as are defined below, and particular cationicpolymers, namely guar gums, as conditioning agents, it is possible toobtain detergent compositions displaying excellent cosmetic properties,especially in respect of the ease of styling, the hold, the liveliness,the smoothness and the suppleness of the treated hair, as well as verygood intrinsic washing power.

[0010] While there is no wish to limit the present invention to a theoryof any kind, there would appear to exist, between the cationic polymer,the silicone, the anionic surfactant and the amphoteric surfactant,which are according to the invention, and the hair, particularaffinities and/or interactions which favour an even, substantial andlasting deposition of the said silicone and/or the said cationic polymerat the surface of the said hair, this qualitative and quantitativedeposition probably being one of the causes of the observed improvementin respect of the final cosmetic properties, especially the ease ofdisentangling of the wet or dried hair, the ease of styling and thesmoothness from the root to the end of the treated hair. Be that as itmay, the cosmetic properties associated with the compositions comprisingan anionic surfactant, an amphoteric surfactant of the alkylbetaine typeand the combination of conditioning agents [cationic guar gum/specificsilicone] according to the invention are markedly superior to thosewhich can be obtained employing compositions not comprising thesimultaneous presence of all these essential compounds.

[0011] All these discoveries underlie the present invention.

[0012] Thus, according to the present invention, provision is now madefor new detergent and conditioning hair-care compositions comprising, ina cosmetically acceptable medium, (A) a washing base comprising at leastone anionic surfactant and at least one amphoteric surfactant of theC₁₀-C₁₄ alkylbetaine type, and (B) a conditioning system comprising atleast one cationic guar gum and at least one insoluble silicone ofviscosity leas than or equal to 350 Pa·s (350,000 cSt), chosen from:

[0013] (i) polydialkylsiloxanes, (ii) polydiarylsiloxanes and (iii)polyalkylarylsiloxanes,

[0014] the said silicone being introduced into the composition innon-emulsified form.

[0015] The subject of the invention is also the use in cosmetics of theabove compositions for cleansing and conditioning the hair.

[0016] However, other characteristics, aspects and advantages of theinvention will become still more clearly apparent on reading thedescription which follows, as well as the specific but in no waylimiting examples designed to illustrate it.

[0017] As stated above, the essential constituents participating in thecomposition of the hair-care products of the invention are (A) a washingbase comprising at least one anionic detergent surfactant and (ii) atleast one amphoteric surfactant of the C₁₀-C₁₄ alkylbetaine type and (B)a conditioning system comprising (i) the cationic guar gum or gums and(ii) the insoluble silicone or silicones.

[0018] A—Washing Base:

[0019] The compositions according to the invention necessarily comprisea washing base, which is generally aqueous.

[0020] The surfactant or surfactants forming the washing base compriseone or more anionic surfactants and one or more amphoteric C₁₀-C₁₄alkylbetaine surfactants.

[0021] The minimum amount of washing base is that which is justsufficient to impart a satisfactory lathering and/or detergent power tothe final composition, and excessively large amounts of washing base donot really provide any additional advantages.

[0022] Thus, according to the invention, the washing base can representfrom 4% to 50% by weight, preferably from 10% to 35% by weight and stillmore preferably from 12% to 25% by weight of the total weight of thefinal composition.

[0023] According to a preferred characteristic of the hair-carecompositions according to the present invention, the washing base doesnot contain surfactants other them anionic surfactants and amphotericsurfactants of the C₁₀-C₁₄ alkylbetaine type.

[0024] (i) Anionic surfactant(s):

[0025] In the context of the present invention, the nature of these doesnot actually assume critical importance.

[0026] Thus, as an example of anionic surfactants which can be used,alone or mixed, in the context of the present invention, there may bementioned, in particular (non-limiting list), the salts (especiallyalkali metal salts, in particular sodium salts, ammonium salts, aminesalts, salts of amino alcohols or magnesium salts) of the followingcompounds: alkyl sulphates, alkyl other sulphates, alkylamido ethersulphates, alkylaryl polyether sulphates, monoglyceride sulphates;alkylsulphonates, alkyl phosphates, alkylamidesulphonates,alkylarylsulphonates, α-olefin sulphonates, paraffin sulphonates;alkylsulphosuccinates, alkyl ether sulphosuccinates,alkylamidesulphosuccinates; alkylsulphosuccinmates; alkylsulphoacetates;alkyl ether phosphates; acylsarcosinates; acylisethionates andN-acyltaurates; the alkyl or acyl radicals of all these differentcompounds preferably containing from 12 to 20 carbon atoms, and the arylradical preferably denoting a phenyl or benzyl group. Among anionicsurfactants which can also be used, there may also be mentioned fattyacid salts such as the salts of oleic, ricinoleic, palmitic and stearicacids, and coconut oil or hydrogenated coconut oil acids; andacyllactylates in which the acyl radical contains 8 to 20 carbon atoms.It is also possible to use weakly anionic surfactants, such as alkylD-galactosiduronic acids and their salts, as well as polyoxyalkylenatedether carboxylic acids and their salts, especially those containing from2 to 50 ethylene oxide groups, and mixtures thereof. The anionicsurfactants of the type comprising polyoxyalkylenated ether carboxylicacids or salts are, in particular, those which correspond to thefollowing formula (I):

[0027] in which:

[0028] R₁ denotes an alkyl or alkylaryl group and n is an integer ordecimal number (average value) which can vary from 2 to 24 andpreferably from 3 to 10, the alkyl radical having between 6 and 20carbon atoms approximately, and aryl preferably denoting phenyl,

[0029] A denotes H, ammonium, Na, K, Li, Mg or a monoethanolamine ortriethanolamine residue. It is also possible to use mixtures ofcompounds of formula (I), especially mixtures in which the groups R₁ aredifferent.

[0030] Among all these anionic surfactants, it is preferable to use,more especially, the salts of alkyl sulphates and of alkyl ethersulphates, as well as mixtures thereof.

[0031] (ii) Amphoteric surfactant(s):

[0032] According to the invention, the amphoteric surfactants have to bechosen from the (C₁₀-C₁₄)alkylbetaines of formula:

[0033] in which R denotes a linear or branched C₁₀-C₁₄, and PreferablyC₁₂-C₁₄, alkyl radical.

[0034] In particular, it is preferable to use the cocoylbetaine sold bythe company HENKEL under the name DEHYTON AB 30.

[0035] B—Conditioning System

[0036] (i) Cationic guar gum(s):

[0037] The compositions according to the invention necessarily comprise,in addition, a cationic guar gum.

[0038] Generally speaking, for the purposes of the present invention,the term “cation guar gum” is understood to mean any guar gum containingcationic groups and/or groups which can be ionized to cationic groups.

[0039] Preferred cationic groups are chosen from those containingprimary, secondary, tertiary and/or quaternary amine groups.

[0040] The cationic guar gums used generally have a weight-averagemolecular mass of between 500 and 5×10⁶ approximately, and preferablybetween 10³ and 3×10⁶ approximately.

[0041] The cationic guar gums which can be used according to the presentinvention are, for example, guar gums containing trialkylammoniumcationic groups. Preferably, 2 to 30%, in numerical terms, of thehydroxyl functions of these guar gums bear trialkylammonium cationicgroups.

[0042] Among these trialkylammonium groups, trimethylammonium andtriethylammonium groups may be mentioned most especially.

[0043] Still more preferably, these groups represent from 5 to 20% byweight of the total weight of the modified guar gum.

[0044] According to the invention, it is preferable to use a guar gummodified with hydroxypropyltrimethyl-ammonium groups.

[0045] These guar gums modified with cationic groups are products whichare already known per se, and are, for example, described in PatentsU.S. Pat. Nos. 3,589,578, and 4,031,307. Such products are, moreover,sold, in particular, under the trade names JAGUAR C13 S, JAGUAR C 15,JAGUAR C 17 and JAGUAR C162 by the company MEYHALL.

[0046] According to a preferred characteristic of the hair-carecompositions according to the invention, these compositions do notcontain cationic polymers other than cationic guar gums.

[0047] (ii) Silicone(s):

[0048] According to an essential characteristic of the detergenthair-care compositions according to the invention, these compositionscontain, in addition, at least one specific insoluble silicone.Furthermore, this silicone must not have been introduced into thecomposition in emulsion form.

[0049] According to the present invention, the term insoluble isunderstood to mean insoluble in the final composition.

[0050] The viscosity of these insoluble silicones is preferably between1,000 and 350,000 cSt and more especially between 10,000 and 200,000 cSt(between 20 and 200 Pa·s), and still more preferably between 30,000 and100,000 cSt.

[0051] The viscosity of these silicones is measured at 25° C. accordingto ASTM Standard 445 Appendix C.

[0052] This silicone is chosen from (i) polydialkylsiloxanes, (ii)polydiarylsiloxanes and (iii) polyalkylarylsiloxanes,

[0053] The alkyl radicals contain, in particular, from 1 to 10 carbonatoms, and especially denote methyl. The aryl radicals more especiallydenote phenyl.

[0054] Among polydialkylsiloxanes, there may be mentioned mainly:

[0055] polydimethylsiloxanes containing terminal trimethylsilyl groups,such as, for example, and without implied limitation, the SILBIONE oilsof 70047 series, marketed by RHONE POULENC, or some VISCASIL productsfrom GENERAL ELECTRIC (Viscosil 60,000), the FLUID DC 200 products fromthe company DOW CORNING or the silicone oil AK 300,000 from the companyWACKER;

[0056] polydimethylsiloxanes containing terminal hydroxydimethylsilylgroups, such as the oils of the 48 V series from RHONE POULENC or theproduct Q2-1401 marketed by the company DOW CORNING.

[0057] In this class of polydialkylsiloxanes, there may also bementioned the polydialkylsiloxanes sold by the company GOLDSCHMIDT underthe trade names ABILWAX, which arepolydimethyldi(C₁₀-C₂₀)alkylsiloxanes.

[0058] As a guide, the detergent compositions according to the inventiongenerally have the following compositions:

[0059] (i) anionic surfactant(s): from 5 to 50% by weight, and preferalyfrom 5 to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the detergentcomposition;

[0060] (ii) amphoteric surfactant(s) of the alkylbetaine type: from 1 to50% by weight, and preferably from 1 to 20% by weight, relative to thetotal weight of the composition. Furthermore, the concentration ofamphoteric surfactants is generally, from 5 to 70% by weight, andpreferably from 10 to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of theanionic surfactant or surfactants present in the detergent formulation;

[0061] (iii) cationic guar gum(s): from 0.001% to 10% by weight,preferably from 0.005% to 5% by weight and still more preferably from0.01% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition;

[0062] (iv) non-pre-emulsified insoluble silicone(s): frog 0.05% to 10%,preferably from 0.1% to 5% and still more preferably from 0.2% to 3%relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0063] The vehicle or carrier of the detergent compositions according tothe invention is preferably water or an aqueous-alcoholic solution of alower alcohol such as ethanol, isopropanol or butanol.

[0064] The detergent compositions according to the invention have afinal pH generally of between 3 and 9. Preferaly, this pH is between 5and 7. Adjustment of the pH to the desired value may be done in thetraditional manner by adding a base (organic or inorganic) to thecomposition, for example aqueous ammonia or a primary, secondary ortertiary (poly)amine such as monoethanolamine, diethanolamine,triethanolamine, isopropanolamine or 1,3-propane-diamine, oralternatively by adding an acid, preferably a carboxylic acid such as,for example, citric acid.

[0065] The detergent compositions according to the invention maynaturally contain, in addition, all the standard adjuvants encounteredin the field of shampoos, such as, for example, perfumes, preservatives,sequestering agents, thickeners, emollients, foam modifiers, colorants,pearlescent agents, hydrating agents, antidandruff or antiseborrhoeicagents, vitamins, sunscreen agents, suspending agents and the like.

[0066] Naturally, a person skilled in the art will take care to choosethis/these possible supplementary compound(s) and/or the amounts thereofin such a way that the advantageous properties intrinsically associatedwith the quaternary combination (anionic surfactant+amphotericsurfactant of the alkylbetaine type+cationic guar gum+specific silicone)according to the invention are not, or are not substantially, impairedby the addition or additions envisaged.

[0067] These compositions may take the form of more or less thickenedliquids, of creams or of gel, and they are mainly suitable for washingthe hair, for hair care and/or for hair styling.

[0068] When the compositions according to the invention are employed astraditional shampoos, they are simply applied to wet hair, and thelather generated by massage or friction with the hands is then removed,after an optional period of exposure, by rinsing with water, it beingpossible for the operation to be repeated once or several times.

[0069] As stated above, the compositions according to the inventionimpart to the hair, after rinsing, a noteworthy treatment effect whichmanifests itself, in particular, in an ease of disentangling and ofstyling as well as a smoothness and softness which are markedlyimproved.

[0070] A subject of the invention is also a process for washing andconditioning keratinous fibres such as the hair, consisting in applyingto the said fibres in the wet state an effective amount of compositionas defined above, and in then rinsing with water after an optionalperiod of exposure.

[0071] A specific but in no way limiting example illustrating theinvention will now be given.

EXAMPLE

[0072] A shampoo composition containing the following was produced:Sodium lauryl ether sulphate   14 g AS (C₁₂/C₁₄ in the ratio 70:30)containing 2.2 mol of ethylene oxide (AS = active substance)Cocoylbetaine in aqueous solution 2.56 g AS containing 32% of activesubstance (DEHYTON AB 30 from HENKEL) Cationic guar gum (*) 0.05 gInsoluble silicone (**)  2.7 g Mixture (47:53 by weight) of  2.5 g1-hexadecylexy-2-octadecanol and cetyl alcohol Coconut acidmonoisopropanolamide  1.6 g Citric acid qs pH 5 Demineralized water qs 100 g

[0073] Shampooing is performed by applying approximately 12 g of thecomposition to previously wetted hair. The shampoo is worked to a latherand the hair is then rinsed copiously with water.

[0074] A panel of experts found that the compositions according to theinvention 1 impart to the hair, after rinsing, a noteworthy treatmenteffect which manifests itself, in particular, in an ease ofdisentangling and of styling as well as a noteworthy smoothness andsoftness of the hair.

1. Detergent and conditioning hair-care composition, characterized inthat they comprise, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, (A) a washingbase comprising at least one anionic surfactant and at least oneamphoteric surfactant of the C₁₀-C₁₄ alkylbetaine type and (B) aconditioning system comprising at least one cationic guar gum and atleast one insoluble silicone of viscosity leas than or equal to 350 Pa·s(350,000 cSt), chosen from (i) polydialkylsiloxanes, (ii)polydiarylsiloxanes and (iii) polyalkylarylsiloxanes, the said siliconebeing introduced into the composition in non-emulsified form. 2.Compositions according to claim 1, characterized in that the saidanionic surfactant or surfactants is/are present in the proportion offrom 5 to 50% by weight, and preferably from 5 to 20% by weight,relative to the total weight of the composition.
 3. Compositionsaccording to either of the preceding claims, characterized in that thesaid amphoteric surfactant or surfactants is/are present in theproportion of from 1 to 50% by weight, and preferably from 1 to 20% byweight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
 4. Compositionsaccording to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that thesaid amphoteric surfactant or surfactants is/are present in theproportion of from 5 to 70% by weight, and preferably from 10 to 30% byweight, relative to the total weight of the said anionic surfactant orsurfactants.
 5. Compositions according to any one of the precedingclaims, characterized in that the said amphoteric surfactant iscocoylbetaine.
 6. Compositions according to any one of the precedingclaims, characterized in that the said cationic guar gum chosen fromguar gums modified with hydroxypropyltrimethylammonium groups. 7.Compositions according to any one of the preceding claims, characterizedin that the said polydialkylsiloxanes are chosen from the groupconsisting of: polydimethylsiloxanes containing terminal trimethylsilylgroups, polydimethylsiloxanes containing terminal hydroxydimethylsilylgroups.
 8. Compositions according to any one of the preceding claims,characterized in that the said cationic guar gum is present in a weightcontent ranging from 0.001% to 10% by weight relative to the totalweight of the composition.
 9. Compositions according to claim 8,characterized in that the said content is between 0.005% and 5%. 10.Compositions according to claim 9, characterized in that the saidcontent is between 0.01% and 3%.
 11. Compositions according to any oneof the preceding claims, characterized in that the said insolublesilicone is present in a weight content of between 0.05% and 10% byweight relative to the total weight of the composition.
 12. Compositionsaccording to claim 11, characterized in that the said content is between0.1% and 5%.
 13. Compositions according to claim 12, characterized inthat the said content is between 0.2% and 3%.
 14. Compositions accordingto any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that they have a pHof between 3 and
 9. 15. Compositions according to any one of thepreceding claims, characterized in that they are aqueous oraqueous-alcoholic compositions.
 16. Compositions according to any one ofthe preceding claims, characterized in that the said washing base isfree from surfactants other than anionic surfactants and amphotericsurfactants of the C₁₀-C₁₄ alkylbetaine type.
 17. Compositions accordingto any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the saidconditioning system is free from cationic polymers other than cationicguar gums.